Edinburgh is bursting with delicious food and interesting things to do and see. Here are my personal favorites and top recommendations for this medieval city!
I recently visited one of my most favorite cities in the world: Edinburgh, Scotland. Although I’ve been here a number of times before, it still remains one of my top places to keep going back to because of its culture, food, and ambiance.
The city holds a special place in my family’s heart, as my sister lived in Edinburgh for five years, getting her PhD at the University of Edinburgh. It is also an easy train journey from my grandparents house near Newcastle, so it has always been a family favorite, especially for my late grandmother.
There are so many things to do, see, and eat in the city, so I’ve compiled a list of my top recommendations. These are a mix of things I’ve done on my most recent trip, as well as what I’ve done on past visits.
For all of these attractions, I always recommend buying tickets and making reservations beforehand. Edinburgh can be a very busy city, and if you arrive during a time where there’s lots of tourists, you might not be able to see and eat at the places you want to.
Things to Do and See:
Walk the Royal Mile
The Royal Mile is at the heart of Edinburgh and runs through the historic Old Town. Lined with shops, restaurants, pubs, historic landmarks, and more, the Royal Mile sits between two royal residences. On one end is Edinburgh Castle and on the other is the Palace of Holyroodhouse.
It should take you about 20-30 minutes to walk the entire length, which, as it says in the name, is about a mile long. The Royal Mile is on a steady hill, so if you are walking from the Castle to the Palace, you will be walking downhill, but if you are walking the reverse, it is entirely uphill.
This is one of the busiest areas of Edinburgh, with lots of tourists walking the street. You will see buskers and bagpipe players along the route, and there are sections that are pedestrian only and some open for traffic.
Edinburgh Castle
Edinburgh Castle is a UNESCO World Heritage site that is located on top of Castle Rock. It is a striking landmark set against the Edinburgh skyline.
It is one of the oldest fortified places in Europe, and has a long, rich history. The Castle was once a royal residence, and today it holds the Scottish Crown jewels. The Honors of Scotland are the oldest Crown jewels in Britain.
This will be one of the busiest tourist sites in Edinburgh, but it is worth a visit. I would recommend getting tickets for the first time slot of the day, and make sure that you book beforehand. I’ve seen lines for the palace going all the way through the front courtyard and carrying down the Royal Mile.
My favorite parts of the Castle were of course the Crown jewels and the dog cemetery. It was very interesting to see the little graves in the small garden, which were all soldier’s companions dating back to 1837.
Palace of Holyroodhouse
The Palace of Holyroodhouse, or commonly known as Holyrood Palace, is the official Scottish residence of the Royal Family. The palace has a long and complex history, housing some of Scotland’s most well-known historic figures, including Mary, Queen of Scots and Bonnie Prince Charlie.
During your visit, you will be able to tour around the Palace, visit the ruins of Holyrood Abbey, and walk through the Palace gardens. Photos are not allowed, so it is worth picking up the Palace guidebook!
The state apartments are full of history, and you can see the bedroom of Mary, Queen of Scots, and the blood stain at the place where her trusted advisor (and possible lover), David Rizzio, was brutally murdered by her husband at the time, Henry Stuart, Lord Darnley. The tour is very interesting, and you feel as if you take a step back in time with the audio guide.
Climb Arthur’s Seat
Located over the road from Holyroodhouse is the famous Arthur’s Seat. This popular hiking spot is an extinct volcano and the peak of a group of hills on the edge of Edinburgh's Old Town.
There are a few routes that you can take to the top. When you start the hike, there is a fork in the road where you can go left or right. A family was standing in front of the sign at the time, so I decided to just go right. Turns out, that was the much harder way up.
There is then another split when you really start the climb, and I took the stairs, which was, again, the harder route of the two. It was a very beautiful hike up, but it was also very difficult. I was only in normal sneakers, and if I were to do it again, I think I would want to wear better shoes. I would not recommend the route I took for the unseasoned hikers.
Another aspect to be wary about is the intensity of the wind at the top. It was an incredibly windy day when I climbed Arthur’s Seat; I almost lost my jacket and had my bag almost blown off my shoulder multiple times. Kids were being shuffled about by the force of the wind, as well as adults stumbling over the rocks. This was some of the strongest winds I have ever experienced.
When I eventually climbed down, I made sure to go along the easier route, and it was a very quick descent. My entire trek probably took about an hour round trip, as well as the 20 minutes I took sitting at the top and taking in the views. It was a really nice way to start my day!
Underground Vault Tour
I’ve been on two underground vault tours in Edinburgh, the most recent being at 11PM on Halloween night, and they are a very cool experience.
The underground vaults, also known as the Edinburgh Vaults or the South Bridge Vaults, are a series of chambers inside the arches of the South Bridge in the Old Town. They were once filled with disease, crime, and poverty, and are now considered to be a haunted attraction. The history of these vaults is super interesting, and your guide will take you through the sordid past, as well as through a bit of history about Old Edinburgh.
The tours can be booked on a variety of platforms and in person at a booth on the Royal Mile. I booked my latest tour through Get Your Guide.
Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh
The Royal Botanic Gardens are one of the world’s leading botanic gardens, located north of the Edinburgh New Town. I was able to get there on the bus from the Royal Mile, and it was a very easy journey.
The gardens are free and a lovely spot to walk around, filled with a large variety of plants and wildlife. One of my favorite spots in the gardens was the Chinese Hillside, which has bamboo, a stupa, and a pagoda surrounded by a pond.
There are a couple nice cafes on the premises, as well as an exhibition space and a fab gift shop. I had a really good nose around the shop, and I wish I lived closer to Edinburgh because there was such a nice collection of house plants on offer.
The Royal Yacht Britannia
The Royal Yacht Britannia was the former royal yacht of the British monarchy, and was once one of the favorite places to go and relax for the late Queen Elizabeth II.
The yacht is moored next to the Ocean Terminal Shopping Center that is north of the Old Town, located on the water. It is even farther north than the Royal Botanic Gardens, and also requires a bus or taxi journey to get there.
It was really cool to walk around the yacht and see where the royal family used to vacation. It is like a time capsule of the past, and you are able to see their old bedrooms and living quarters, and walk along the deck where the Queen once stood.
One of my favorite parts was the portion of the deck that used to be turned into a water slide for the young royal children.
Victoria Street
Victoria Street is a colorful shopping street that is off of the Royal Mile and leads down to Grassmarket. Each building is a different color, making it very picturesque. When JK Rowling was writing the Harry Potter series, a lot of Edinburgh served as inspiration, and Victoria Street helped to inspire Diagon Alley.
There are a number of shops and restaurants along this street, like an Oink, Howies, and a Harry Potter shop. You will always see people on Victoria Street, as it’s a popular tourist spot, and luckily there are not often cars, so it’s nice to walk along the cobbles next to these lovely buildings.
Camera Obscura
Camera Obscura & World of Illusions is a fun museum on the Royal Mile, filled with hundreds of illusions. There are five floors to explore, each one unique and themed around different illusions, and a rooftop terrace with beautiful views over Edinburgh.
One of my favorite parts was the Vortex Tunnel on the second floor. Although you’re walking forward on a straight path, the way the colors swirl around the tunnel makes your ability to walk forward very difficult. Your mind gets confused and you continuously fall over as you walk through the vortex. It’s a great photo spot!
On the rooftop, there is also a special room that houses the Camera Obscura. This camera is capturing a live feed of the Old Town, and you are able to look at the projection onto a table in the chamber and see what’s happening down on the street. You can take it from the Castle, all the way down to Holyrood Palace.
Greyfriars Bobby
Greyfriars Bobby is an iconic statue of a dog from the 19th century. Greyfriars Bobby is known as the most loyal dog in Scotland as he spent 14 years guarding the grave of his owner until he himself died.
This statue commemorates his legacy and is a sweet spot to pass by during your time in Edinburgh. It is a classic photo-op, as so many people have stopped and rubbed his nose, making it change color.
Photo Booth at the Stills Gallery
Looking for a fun memento of your trip to Edinburgh? Located off of the Royal Mile, halfway down Cockburn Street, is the Stills Gallery. It is a center for photography, with a gallery space for changing exhibitions.
When you first walk in, the Stills Automat is just on the right, and you do not have to go into the gallery to use the photo booth.
It is an old-fashioned photo booth, with four poses in black and white. There is no screen telling you when to pose, so be prepared for it to go off almost instantaneously! My first photo might have ended up with me and my eyes closed… Learn from my mistakes!
It does take five minutes to develop your photo strip, and if there are a lot of people in front of you, it will take even longer, so be prepared to stand around for a little bit. The ink is very fresh when it comes out, so don’t put your fingers on the pictures, as you will smudge the ink.
Places to Eat:
Oink
Oink is one of my favorite food spots in Edinburgh! I’ve been for lunch every time I’ve visited the city. Since the explosion of TikTok, it has become even more popular, making the lines go out the door.
There are three locations within Edinburgh: Victoria Street, Hanover Street, and Canon Gate. The Victoria Street location is on the way to Grassmarket, Hanover Street is in the New Town, and Canon Gate is at the end of the Royal Mile, close to Holyrood Palace.
If you are a vegan or vegetarian, this is not the place for you! In the shop window is the roasted pig of the day, head included. Their hog roasted sandwiches are divine.
There are a multitude of options when customizing your sandwich. You can choose your size, bread type, fillings, and sauces. Each sandwich also comes with a crispy piece of pork crackling.
My go-to order is an Oink on white bread, with sage and onion stuffing, homemade mustard mayo, and applesauce. It is an extra 80p for a second sauce, but it is well worth it for this flavor combination!
Noto
Noto is an independent restaurant that serves small tapas style plates with an eclectic, Asian-fusion style food. I had first heard of this place on the YouTube channel, TopJaw, and thought that it looked like a fantastic meal, and I was right!
When I say small plates, they are very small, so I ended up having four to myself, as well as a dessert. Originally I only ordered three, but I was still hungry, so I went back for one more.
The atmosphere is really chill inside, with a nice ambiance. You are sitting in a dimly lit room during your meal, with very little overhead light and lots of candles, but that does add a nice touch in my opinion.
I ended up having the north sea crab with warm butter and sourdough; the beef tartare with black garlic and crumpets; the scottish mackerel with ponzu, wasabi mayo, and pickled squash; and the anster, mushroom, and truffle croquettes. For dessert, I had a delicious chocolate miso bar, with hazelnut and salted milk ice cream.
Makars Mash Bar
Makars Mash Bar brings Scottish comfort food to life. The food here is delicious, and the restaurant has lots of awards to prove it!
At Makars, they are doing a yummy spin on classic mash, with plenty of meat and vegetarian options. From the menu, you will choose the core bit of your plate, and then pick an accompanying mash.
Since I was in Scotland and wanted to go local, I chose the Makars Exclusive Royal Highland Haggis with Heather Honey and Turnip Puree. I paired that with the Mild Smoked Applewood Cheese mash. It was fantastic!
The peppery taste of the Haggis and the rich creaminess of the puree and mash was so good. It is definitely on my list of places to go again the next time I’m visiting.
Mary’s Milk Bar
Mary's Milk Bar is an Edinburgh dessert staple found in Grassmarket. This ice cream shop gives customers interesting flavor profiles, creating wacky and weird options for adventurous eaters. There is also always at least one vegan option available as well.
The menu changes every day, and is posted on their Instagram every morning for customers to view. There are a handful of flavors that have caught my attention, and whenever I’m visiting, I always hope that they’ll be available. There are also a number that I know I never want to try.
Some of my top choices are chocolate orange, cherries & cream, violet choc-chip, apricot & rose, and passionfruit ripple. Some that I find a lot quirkier are roasted garlic, black sesame, saffron & nutmeg, cumin & mango, and white sesame cashew & miso.
When I was last there, I tried two scoops: almond orange blossom and apricot & cardamom. My fav of the two was the almond orange blossom; it was so delicious!
If funky flavors aren’t your thing, they also serve milk, dark chocolate, and salted caramel every day. I’ve had the dark chocolate and salted caramel together, and they were yum.
The Palmerston
The Palmerston is just a five minute walk from Haymarket station on the West End of Edinburgh. To get there from the Old Town where I was staying, I took a Scot-Rail train just one stop from Edinburgh Waverley, but you could also do the 35-40 minute walk. During the day, I would have totally been fine doing that. However, since I was on my own and it was getting dark very early, I didn’t want to walk that far, there and back, by myself.
The Palmerston has a menu that changes daily with locally-sourced ingredients. I’ve included the menu from my visit, so you are able to see what it could look like when you go.
I had a lovely meal here, filled with fantastic flavors. For my starter, I had the roast beetroot and pear salad with pickled radish and yogurt, and for my main, I had the fried Shetland lamb’s liver and creamed spinach on toast with red wine figs. I was so full after that I had to decline a dessert, though the lemon curd ice cream and meringue definitely caught my eye.
Howies
Located at the top of Victoria Street is Howies, filled with classic Scottish foods and a wide array of options. There is also a second location, Howies Waterloo, which is on the other side of Edinburgh Waverley.
If you are making a reservation, make sure you then turn up to the correct location! This unfortunately happened to the two girls in front of me in line, who then needed to quickly run off to Waterloo.
I had a very nice meal here! I was seated in a little two person booth, and my waitress and the host were very welcoming and checked on me often to make sure everything was to my liking.
I began my meal with a Howies Classic cocktail - the Howies Cassis - which was a glass of sparkling wine with cassis, or blackcurrant.
For my starter, I went for the Belhaven Smokehouse smoked salmon, which came with a watercress and pickled cucumber salad, wasabi mayonnaise, and some homemade soda bread. As for my main, I chose the warm charred, spiced cauliflower salad with romesco dressing, tender stem broccoli, pickled raisins, and almonds, and I added chargrilled chicken.
And for dessert, I went with the dark chocolate crémeux, with blackcurrant gel, chocolate ‘soil’, and raspberry sorbet. It was a great way to polish off my meal!
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